Smarter Vitello Tonnato

Trim the veal fillet of all sinews.

Peel carrot and onions and cut into very small dice. Rinse celery and fennel bulb and cut into very small pieces. Peel garlic clove.

Combine prepared vegetables with bay leaf, tarragon, and  peppercorns in a large pot and season with salt. Add veal and white wine along with enough water so that the meat is just covered.

Remove veal from the pot and bring the broth to a boil. Cook for 15 minutes. Return veal to pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until veal is cooked through, about 18 minutes. Remove veal and let cool on a plate.

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: Drain  tuna well. Squeeze out lemon juice.

Mix together yogurt, sour cream and 1 tablespoon lemon juice in a small bowl until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Mix in 3/4 of the tuna until smooth. (If sauce is too thick, you can add a little strained cooking liquid.)

Peel shallot and cut into thin rings. Blanch tomatoes quickly in boiling water, then remove and rinse under cold water. Peel off skins. Cut tomatoes into quarters and remove seeds, then cut into small cubes.

Rinse basil, shake dry, pluck leaves and cut into fine strips. Drain capers and chop coarsely.

Mix together shallot, tomatoes, basil, capers, remaining tuna, red-wine vinegar and oil.